Feline House Soiling: What to Do When Your Cat Pees or Poops in Your Home

Mar 10, 2025
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Written by Anne Marie Rodgers, reviewed by Renee Calvert, DVM

“She’s doing it to spite me because I went away!”

“He’s just mad because we got a new puppy.”

We hear statements like these all too often from cat owners who are struggling with a cat who is urinating or defecating outside the litter box somewhere in the house, and we need to clear the air. Cats do not pee or poop in the house because they are “mad.” They don’t “get revenge.” 

There are myriad reasons cats may avoid their litterboxes, so let’s run through some of the most common reasons and discuss what you can do to help fix the problem.

WHY HOUSE SOILING OCCURS

Cats often have medical issues that cause them to begin to pee, spray, or poop outside the litter box. They also can become upset when their routines change, the household is shaken up, or something in their environment or relationships within the home has changed. House soiling may be how they express their feelings of fear, anxiety, or stress. Rather than assigning them a human emotion such as anger or accusing them of plotting revenge, we need to look at their health and environment to see what is causing them to react with such an unappealing behavior.

Feline house soiling (peeing or pooping outside the litter box in the home) is one of the most common reasons owners decide to give away or surrender a cat to a shelter or rescue. As a practice that has worked with rescue organizations for many years, we have seen cats surrendered for inappropriate urination or defecation many times. But what we have also seen are those same cats rehomed into a different environment who never have another problem with house soiling again! What many people don’t realize is that treatment for house soiling has a high success rate. 

Cats may mark (spray), pee or poop in the home for a variety of reasons. Figuring out why they are house soiling is essential to overcoming the problem. They may have a medical condition, the litter box may be in an undesirable location, they may hate the new litter that replaced what you were using, or there may be changes in the home environment that have stressed out the kitty…and on and on. The cause may be quite simple, or it may be exceptionally complex.

But take heart! As with most behavior issues, prevention and early intervention can help resolve house soiling in many cases. Taking the time to accurately diagnose and identify factors causing the house soiling can help an owner resolve the problem and save their belongings and their relationship with their furry companion.

FIRST STEP: RULE OUT A MEDICAL PROBLEM

First, we recommend a visit with one of our veterinarians any time your cat begins spraying, urinating, or defecating outside the litter box. A solid veterinary examination is the first stepping stone. There are many medical reasons for house soiling, and we need to make sure your kitty is healthy before recommending any interventions in the home.
 

Here are some of the more common medical reasons a cat may stop using its litter box appropriately:

• Sometimes a cat with a painful medical problem may associate its pain with the litter box and seek another location to relieve itself. 

• A senior cat who can’t move far or well because it is suffering from osteoarthritis may decide a convenient corner is easier than going to the litter box. 

• Feline idiopathic cystitis is a common, painful bladder condition with no cause that we can discern that frequently leads to urination outside the litter box.  

• Bacterial urinary tract infections also are common and lead to litter box avoidance.

• Diabetes, kidney disease, cognitive impairment, and other conditions may all interfere with regular, appropriate litter box use. 

• Male cats that are not neutered may also exhibit marking behavior.

Let us check out your cat as soon as you recognize that your kitty is soiling outside the litter box to see if there is a medical reason for litter box avoidance. People often assume, wrongly, that the cat is choosing not to use the box just to be annoying. In fact, there may be a health issue that can be addressed to make your kitty feel more comfortable and get him using that litter box again.

If there is a medical reason that your kitty is not using the litter box, our veterinarians will suggest appropriate treatments. Even if there is not a medical reason for your cat’s house soiling behavior, we may be able to recommend a variety of interventions, including a variety of medication or calming pheromones, to help the situation. There are even feline diets now that claim to help reduce stress.

LITTER BOX BEST PRACTICES

Next, let’s talk about your home’s litter boxes. Location, access, cleanliness, and stress are all important factors to consider.
 

Litter box location is a very big deal to a cat. A litter box should be easily accessible. It should be in a quiet location and in a place where the cat feels secure. For instance, a brand-new kitten should be introduced to its litter box immediately. It should be kept in the room near that litter box for several days, and then should gradually be given access to the rest of the home. If you are getting a new kitten, we strongly encourage you to seek out advice and information on preparing for the kitten before you actually bring your new baby home. That old homily, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” could literally have been written about cats and litter boxes!

A senior cat, in contrast, should have a litter box that they can access easily, one that may not require going through a cat door or up/down stairs, even though that may have worked in the past. As your cat ages, watch for signs that arthritis may be slowing them down. An inability to jump onto surfaces that were once easily mounted or a refusal to do steps could be signs that a senior cat is in pain. And a senior cat in pain may choose not to go to a litter box that is not conveniently located close to the area where they spend much of their day.

For many of the reasons above, a large home may require having litter boxes on multiple floors. Some cats are great about always going to the place where the litter boxes are located. Others find it too far to travel and choose their own location.

If you have a cat that appears to prefer a specific location and is soiling in that spot, it may be wise to locate a litter box there. Once the cat is regularly using the litter box in that location, you might be able to move the box elsewhere. Slowly moving it a foot or two at a time may give you an idea of whether the cat will cooperate. At the same time, you could try placing bowls of food and water where the litter box was (provided the odor has been thoroughly removed). This may encourage the cat to try a different behavior (eating and drinking) in that space.
 

Litter box access and security are other significant issues to address. A high traffic bathroom used by numerous family members who often close the door is also probably not a great location for a litter box. A closet where the door accidentally gets closed can also be problematic. The cat needs a quiet, private area as much as you do, but it must always be accessible. If you do not have a lot of space, consider turning the box toward the wall so the cat feels a sense of privacy.

If you have multiple cats, a good rule of thumb is to have one litter box per cat plus one extra. And if one of the cats is a bully, preventing another from easily getting to a box, perhaps putting boxes in different locations could help. We have seen situations where one hostile cat guards the box and another cat is unable or afraid to use it. That cat is one who will find another spot to relieve himself.

Dogs must be kept away from litter boxes. Many dogs love the “tootsie rolls” they find in the litter box, but those tasty snacks may contain parasites or simply make your dog’s breath smell like, well, poop! And there is nothing worse for a cat than a dog hovering hopefully outside the box while the poor cat is trying to do its business. The invention of pet gates with cat doors in them has been a wonderful thing. If you have a litter box-loving dog, consider getting a free-standing pet gate with a door in it for the cat and placing it around a corner-facing litter box or wall off one room. If you have a small dog who can fit through a pet door, perhaps lock the pet door and place a chair beside the gate so the cat can jump up and over.

And again, turning a box to face a corner or wall may stop a less-determined dog, although there are many who aren’t deterred. (Lookin’ at you, beagles!)
 

The next item on the list is cleanliness. Cleanliness is critical! Far too many cat owners fail to scoop litter boxes regularly. A daily scoop to remove urine and feces can prevent strong, awful smells that may make your pet want to find another place to “go.” Do you like finding an unflushed toilet? Neither does your cat! And having to enter an enclosed box that stinks to high heavens might be enough to deter even the best-behaved kitty.

Tip: Keep a plastic can with a tight lid near your box. You can scoop daily, contain the odor with a fitted lid, and clean the whole thing just once a week.
 

Environmental stresses can lead to litter box avoidance. Bullying housemates were mentioned above. Dogs that may chase a cat can be highly stressful and problematic. It’s not cute or funny to allow a dog to harass a cat. Bullying and harassment can cause insecurity and fear and lead to a cat relieving itself in an inappropriate place rather than attempting to walk through the house to the litter box location.

Other environmental stresses to consider include:

• The arrival of a new family member. A new baby or a family member moving in can disrupt the calm environment the cat enjoyed. 

• A family member moving out can also be stressful for a kitty, especially if they were close to the person leaving. 

• Families who regularly rescue other animals may need to protect the resident cat from feeling overwhelmed by newcomers. 

• Parties or rowdy visitors may be other stresses that overwhelm a normally reliable cat and make it choose to find a quieter location rather than trying to navigate to its litter box.
• A move to a new residence can be stressful. Cats should be contained in one room initially and after the hubbub of moving in concludes, can slowly be given access to the rest of the home.
• You name it, a cat may find it objectionable! Renovations, exceptionally loud music, thunderstorms, fireworks…any time your cat begins house soiling and you have ruled out a medical condition, you will need to be a sleuth to figure out what is causing stress in the cat’s life.

LITTER BOX SPECIFICATIONS

Now…what about the box itself? Litterboxes come in a wide variety of shapes and styles. They can be disguised in an enclosed piece of furniture. They may be self-cleaning. No matter what you prefer, ultimately the important thing is that your cat approves of the litter box.

The size and shape of a litter box may affect a cat’s willingness to use it, as can the type of litter. A great first step is to purchase 3-4 inexpensive boxes and fill each with a different type of litter. Place them all side by side and see if the cat selects one in particular over the course of a week or so. Clay clumping litter is often a winner, but try several different types. Just like you may prefer a certain type of toilet paper, your cat may prefer a certain type of litter.

Once the litter has been selected, consider the type of box your cat may prefer. 

• Open or closed? Some cats dislike a hooded box that may make them feel trapped, while others appear to like the privacy. 

• High or low? Senior cats, especially, may have trouble accessing a higher opening and may simply go elsewhere. 

• Large or small? Having a litter box big enough for your cat to turn around in is important. Behaviorists recommend a box should be should be roughly one-and-one-half times the length of the cat from nose to tail. That’s a pretty ambitious box size but if you are having a cat with litter box problems, this could help.

MARKING or SPRAYING

All this is great, but what if your cat is marking? Urine marking is almost always directed at a vertical surface; the cat backs up to a wall and holds its tail erect while spraying. Marking does not replace usual elimination, and is known to be a social marker among cats. If you have a cat marking near a door or window, the cat could be reacting to an outsider cat it can see. 

Marking can also occur when an animal is frightened or anxious, such as in the case of separation anxiety; such events might include instances of marking on belongings or a specific person’s bed. Cats also may react with house soiling episodes to noise events like fireworks and storms. Your veterinarian should definitely be consulted when these instances begin to occur; there may be treatment options and suggestions that could help.

WHAT WON’T HELP WITH HOUSE SOILING

What not to do when a cat is urinating, marking, or defecating inappropriately: We never advocate spraying a cat with water, hitting, or yelling at it. All you will do is create a pet who associates you with bad things happening, and you will lose the close bond you have.

ENRICHMENT 

Enriching your cat’s environment may also help alter your cat’s interest in searching out the perfect place to bomb your home. Many people who get cats expect those cats to entertain themselves. We, as a culture, have not really learned that all living beings for whom we are responsible deserve more than just having their basic needs met. Sure, we give our feline friends food and water, and we toss a litter box in a corner, but what else can we do to make sure that our cats are living a full, rich life? We take dogs for walks, or throw balls, or let them out to run and sniff around their yards. Cats’ lives can be similarly enriched with a variety of thoughtful interactive toys, with scratching posts, with climbing trees that look out windows where bird feeders or squirrel stations are situated. While this is not a blog about enrichment, it is certainly worth a mention in your quest to make your cat’s life happy, calm and fulfilled.

CONCLUSIONS

In conclusion, don’t give up quickly if your cat begins peeing or pooping in the house. First, plan a vet visit to rule out medical issues. Call us immediately so we can ensure there is not a medical reason for the problem. If we don’t find anything, we can offer you a number of strategies to try to overcome your kitty’s behavior and ultimately restore the happy household you once knew.